Window Channel Replacement

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This is the long awaited set of instructions on how to replace your worn window channels in a Triumph as demonstrated at the Super Bowl Tech Clinic. The instructions are written based on the TR6, but the basics apply to many others. These instructions will allow you to remove the old window channels, replace the channel itself, and reinstall them without having to remove the glass or window trim. Total cost is about $15 per door.

Please read the instructions before you begin. You should have several pieces of plastic inside the door. It is recommended that you leave them in place. If either of the window seals need replacing, do that while the window channels are out and the door is open (so you can easily pick up the clips you drop in the door).

Parts needed per door:

• 2 window channels (Moss # 803-265)
• 12 3/32" medium length rivets (available at real hardware stores, not Home Depot and chain stores, or some auto parts stores like PepBoys for a higher price)

Gain access to the inside of the door:

• Remove door opening lever and window winder handle from inside the door - gently push and lever the plastic disk against the spring. Insert something to hold it back. I used an allen wrench on each side (5/32 and 3/16"). Take a punch and tap out the retaining pin. Put the pins in a safe place so you don't loose them.
• Remove the screws at either end of the door pocket (and any others a DPO may have used).
• Carefully remove the door trim panel.

Remove the window channels:

• Raise the window.
• Remove the six bolts holding the front and rear window channels.
• Pull the rear channel forward and unhook the "anti-spread bar."
• While holding the window with one hand, remove the front channel with the other through the large opening in the bottom of the door.
• Lower the window about 2" then remove the three bolts in the center of the door supporting the winder mechanism.
• Lift the rear of the window and withdraw the rear window channel.
• Replace the three winder bolts so the window stays supported.
• Take a break and wash any grease off your hands.

Prepare brackets to be refurbished:

• Verify replacement channels match. Note one end is narrower. This is the top end. Cut the bottom end to length now. If the sticker is still wrapped around the channel, label them Front and Rear with an up arrow indicating the top.
• Label the brackets F, R, and 1, 2, and 3 (top, middle, and bottom) and with an arrow pointing up.
• I recommend having only one channel apart at a time to avoid mixing parts.
• Use a screwdriver to remove any remaining file and rubber inside the channel to expose the back of the rivets.
• Carefully drill out the old rivets on one channel. I recommend not drilling all the way through the rivet to avoid damaging the brackets.
• The brackets can then be snapped off and remaining rivet sections can be carefully removed.
• If the plastic/nylon guides from the top bracket are worn, you can tighten them by gently squeezing it in a vise.
• Use the old channel and brackets as a template and drill 3/32" holes in the new channel to match the old.
• Treat any rust on the brackets and paint the cut end of the window channel to protect it.
• Use a brad point drill bit (3/16") to clean from inside the channel of the rivet holes.
• Rivet brackets on to the new channels with 3/32" pop rivets. For the lower bracket, you can use a short spacer (like a larger heavy duty rivet) and rivet from inside the channel. For the upper bracket, you have to go from the back of the channel.
• Use a punch to flatten the ends of the rivets inside the channel as necessary.

Prepare for reassembly:

• Clean out the bottom of the door as necessary. Discover treasures like window seal clips.
• Treat rust inside the door as necessary. Make sure front and read drains are clear.

Put things back together:

• Remove the three bolts in the winder mechanism.
• Insert rear channel.
• Insert front channel and attach anti-spread bar.
• Loosely install the bolts in the winder mechanism and window channels.
• Once everything is in place, tighten the bolts and verify the window goes up and down.
• Put the rest of the door back together. I cheated and used 1/16" cotter pins in place of the pins and left out the springs when reinstalling the door and window levers.

Suggestions, comments, and questions can be addressed to Brian at channel@sctoa.org.
Last updated 5 Jun 00.